This story first appeared in The Beet, a monthly email dispatch from Meduza covering Central and Eastern Europe, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. To get the next issue delivered directly to your inbox, sign up here.
“The first time I went…

This story first appeared in The Beet, a monthly email dispatch from Meduza covering Central and Eastern Europe, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. To get the next issue delivered directly to your inbox, sign up here.
“The first time I went…